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Manticore Headphone Fixes
In General Discussion: Detectors
Manticore Headphone Fixes
In General Discussion: Detectors
Brent
Feb 09, 2023
I just finished my schematic for the Manticore headphones (attached). I'll start by stating that I did this mostly over a single day with only a little research done last week, so I could easily have missed something. I also am pretty burned out from trying to onboard 4 new engineering teams at my office, so my brain isn't firing on all cylinders right now - again, I may have missed something. I don't know why, but for some reason, I thought the Manticore used a proprietary wireless communication mechanism and not Bluetooth (possibly because they never call out Bluetooth in the Manticore marketing and instead say, "low-latency wireless audio", or because they specify in the ML105 marketing that it has "higher quality audio than standard Bluetooth". Who knows?). However, the transceiver chip was a Bluetooth 5.2 transceiver available on Digikey and Mouser. I checked the FCC filing for the Minelab ML105 headphones, and sure enough, on page 6 of the FCC test results, it calls out: Bluetooth Version V5.2 Modulation GFSK 1Mbps, GFSK 2Mbps Number of Channels 40 Channels On to the technique, tools, and materials: Tools / materials: J0 and J1 Phillips head screwdrivers (plus others for your replacement headphone shell) small flathead screwdriver / pry bar Soldering iron desoldering pump desoldering wick heat gun scraper / knife flux 1mm 2:1 heat shrink tubing 30 AWG wire acrylic conformal coating Epoxy Epoxy Putty, Thermoplastic, or something else moldable Rotary tool with carving bits (dremel, Ryobi, etc.) Technique: Opening the ML105s is pretty easy. Unscrew the two exposed screws on the hinges to the right and left sides of each earcup. This allows the earcups to disconnect from the headband. Remove the foam from the earcups by pulling lightly to expose a small gap at the perimeter, then using a small prybar/screwdriver to gently slide around and disconnect the pressure clips. Once the foam is removed, you will see 4 small Phillips head screws that hold the earcups closed. Once these 4 screws are removed, carefully turn over each earcup and allow the speaker element to fall out. It will still be connected with a wire. Now comes the fun bit. I started by figuring out where the USB-C port was on my new headphone shell and ensuring that Board 1 would fit. It was close but not perfect. I was able to sand down the board a bit to make it fit without compromising any components / connections. Next, I determined where the buttons would be for each Vol -, Vol +, and Power. I did this using the original buttons from the ML105. I routed out holes for these and moved the buttons from the ML105s to their new home. I then used some epoxy putty to build supports for Board 1 so I could screw it down. I wanted to avoid ordering a new FFC cable, so I found a home for Board 2 that let me reuse the original cable. I turned everything on and checked where the LEDs would be most visible, then drilled a small hole in the earcup and filled it with clear epoxy to let the light shine out. I originally tried to retain as much of the original wiring as possible, but it was just too small for me to strip and re-solder with my hands, so I desoldered the 6 wires on Board 1 and replaced them with new 30 AWG wires that I ran to the battery and each speaker. To avoid FULLY disassembling the new headphones (some parts were glued / taped in place), so I used the newly-soldered 30 AWG wires as jumpers and soldering them to the original wires for the Sony headphones I was using, then used heat-shrink tubing to protect the connections. I just abandoned the 500 mAh battery from the ML105s. It was taped down VERY firmly and was also surrounded by a thin plastic border. I could either cut the border (and risk accidentally puncturing the battery), or try to leverage the battery out (and risk puncturing / bending the battery), so I opted to use the 1000 mAh battery from the Sony pair instead. Lastly, before I screwed the 2 boards into their new homes, I coated both with acrylic conformal coating. This just adds a bit more weatherproofing. After that, it was time to close it all up! Marketing Notes: The Bluetooth 5.2 thing really bothers me here. Minelab's marketing for the Manticore and the ML105 headphones both intentionally make it sound as though Minelab is using something better than Bluetooth while not actually saying that. They claim "higher quality audio than standard Bluetooth". But what is "standard Bluetooth"? If I define standard as Bluetooth 5 or as BLE, then yes, Bluetooth 5.2 is definitely better. It's also possible that they're doing something proprietary by limiting the frequencies these headphones use to avoid interference with the detector, and I just don't understand. But at their core, these are Bluetooth 5.2 headphones, which puts them in the same class as headphones like the OneOdio A11, the Razer Barracuda Pro, or the Sony WH1000 XM5. And that begs the question, why not just let us choose the headphones we want? If BT 5.2 is good enough, give us a cheap pair of BT 5.2 headphones with the detector (like they did) and declare clearly in the documentation that Bluetooth headphones are generally supported but that Minelab cannoy guarantee the performance of 3rd party headphones and strongly recommends BT 5.2 or above to avoid latency issues.
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Brent

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